Haas Tool Changer Plate Cad Drawing

Introduction: DIY Automatic Tool Changer for MPCNC

This automatic tool changer is proper to the More often than not Printed CNC, or MPCNC and unlike most tool changers, the chemical mechanism replaces the entire router rather than attempting to tack out just the cutting bit. It is mechanically much simpler to swop the uncastrated router than to develop a system that can exchange the routine within a ferrule that was non designed for automated changing.

Swapping routers incurs some additional be, since multiple routers must be purchased, merely quaternary inexpensive spindles are still cheaper than a professional tool-dynamic solution. In addition, it allows shift 'tween vastly different tools. In principle it would be imaginable to have a router, solder glue extruder, vacuum pick and place, and heat gun all in one auto.

This design is made to fit the a la mode MPCNC Best of the "J" variety which uses 1" (25.4 mm) OD tubes. This Instructable assumes you already have a running Primo "J" machine and wish to add an automatic instrument changer.

This tool changer uses a similar construct atomic number 3 the E3D tool around changer system, which is also in use in the Jubilee creature changing 3D platform. The primary difference is that two cleats are used instead of one, and stiffer preload springs allow a stronger spellbind on the joyride. Another major design goal is to require no odd small hardware from John Bach McMaster-Carr, as an alternative exploitation but parts that can be found locally (in the US) or inexpensively from Amazon.

This is an advanced protrude that is likely to take substantial problem-solving to get working. There are probably many failure modes that I am not reminiscent of, and that this guide does non anticipate.

As a matter of safety, ne'er leave your DIY CNC machine unattended. Fires can pop out extremely quickly. What's the point of an automatic tool around auto-changer if you have to babysit the automobile anyway? Automatic tool changes are still easier than manual of arms ones, even if it is non unattended.

Each 3D printable STL files are addressable connected GitHub here, in collaboration with the OpenSCAD source files for the parts that I created: https://github.com/vector76/mpcnc-tool-changer

A note along licensing: The MPCNC is released with a NC (noncommercial) license that restricts the sale of printed parts but does not restrict other commercial consumption. Some of the parts in that design are copied from those parts and hence inherit the N limitation. All parts that are not derived from MPCNC parts shall have a CC-BY-SA certify.

Supplies

You must have a working Primo "J" CNC machine.

You will need a 3D printer and to a lesser degree one and only kilogram of PLA filament, or a friend with a 3D printer.

For the tool changer you will need:

• 5mm metal rod
• 3mm metal rod
• 8mm balls
• #6-32 machine screws and #6-32 nylon nuts
• #6 x 1/2" sheet metal screws
• Pianissimo telegraph, 0.032" (ill-used for preload springs)
• Piano wire, 0.047" (utilised for making servo pushrods)
• Fishing line, Dyneema 50 pound tes
• Loctite "blue"
• CA glue
• Hot glue
• 1" OD tube, 7.75 inches or 197 mm

You will also postulate these items below which are excess copies of parts that are already necessary for the MPCNC Primo build, so if you are building from scratch, you can buy in extras to be prepared for the tool changer establish.

• 5/16" bolts, 1.5" nightlong and nylon-infix lock in nuts
• 608RS bearings
• M5 x 30mm bolts and nylon-insert put away fruity
• M3 x 10mm bolts
• 1x NEMA 17 motor

Also, non needful but strongly advisable is to build an entire unconnected Z axis that dismiss atomic number 4 swapped come out of the closet, rather than cannibalizing your existing Z bloc. This will require:

• 1x NEMA 17 motor
• 1x Lead screw
• Lead do it coupler
• 2x extra Z rail, 16 inches long operating theatre 406 mm
• Special copies of parts from MPCNC Primo: "z motor" and "z coupling"

You will pauperization some plyboard from which to cut the carousel denture, which has a diam of just low 16 inches, or 406 millimeter.

The 3D printed parts you will need are:

• motor_mount.stl 1x
• dw660_hanger.stl 2x (one for each tool)
• tool_hanger.stl (not obligatory, used for tryout fitting hangers onto hooks)
• tool_parking.stl 2x (one for each tool)
• base_roller.stl 3x
• base_roller_cap.stl 3x
• cap_bearing_holder.stl 1x
• cap_bearing_struts.stl 1x
• carousel_corner_post.stl 1x
• carousel_gear_motor.stl 1x
• carousel_gear_wheel.stl 1x
• universal_tool_plate.stl 2x (one for each tool)
• core_addon_short.stl (not reqiured, possibly W. C. Handy to convert cover to "momentaneous" centerfield meeting place without flipping it over once more)
• core_addon.stl 1x
• back_plate.stl 1x
• servo_bracket.stl 1x
• pulley.stl 2x
• tool_plate.stl 1x (used for test-accommodation)
• plate_b.stl 1x
• plate_a.stl 1x
• drill_guide.stl (not necessary but possibly convenient for drilling 3mm hole in 5mm rod)
• wire_string_link.stl 2x

You leave also need some additive MPCNC parts of the old version:

• 2x "Crank Trap Burly.stl" from hither: https://web.thingiverse.com/thing:1671517/files
• "660_Upper_Mount_V1.STL" and "660_Low_Mount_V1.STL" from Here: https://WWW.thingiverse.com/thing:944952/files (the "lock" parts are not necessity)

Step 1: Build MPCNC Best "J"

If you haven't already, you must double-dyed the MPCNC ahead proceeding with the tool changer build. You do not want to make up struggling with the joyride changer and the underlying simple machine at the same time.

To build the MPCNC you can reservoir your personal electronics and hardware and mark your own plastic parts, or you can buy out some or all of the machines from V1 Engineering. Either way, operating instructions are fairly easy to be and help is available on the V1 Engineering forums.

To reiterate, for the tool around changer to be compatible, you must build the Primo (non the earlier variants) and it mustiness be the "J" variant that uses tubes with 1" (25.4 mm) outside diameter.

Also it is suggested, and this Instructable assumes, that you soma a second separate Z axis to replace the definitive Z axis of rotation, rather than cannibalizing the Z axis of rotation for the tool changer. This provides the option of switching back to standard tool around mounts for non-tool-dynamic jobs.

Step 2: Adjust Firmware and Re-twinkling

Victimization the regular V1 CNC firmware (as of version 504) only two changes pauperization to beryllium made to support the instrument changer:

1. Enable at to the lowest degree one servo. This close the bottom of Shape.h go down NUM_SERVOS to 1 or to a greater extent.
2. Define Extruder steps per unit to 177.777. This can also be achieved via gcode M92 E177.777. Preserve with M500. (If you are using 1/16th microstepping then use 88.888 steps per unit (degrees) via M92 E88.888.)

To belittle strain on the carousel, set E acceleration to 30 degrees per second per second. Usance the gcode command M201 E30. Save with M500.

Assuming you are not using an unusual stepper, most NEMA17 steppers ingest 200 steps per revolution, which at 1/32 microstepping yields 1/6400 microsteps per revolution. At 360 degrees / 6400 steps, the resolving power is 17.777 steps per degree of revolution of the motor. The large wheel has exactly 10 times the teeth of the small wheel, so stairs per degree of the carousel plate is 177.777.

Step 3: Cut Carousel Plate

Cut out plywood wooden carousel plate from carousel_plate.dxf. This does not need to equal high precision, and it could be done with a printed paper template and hand tools, merely since you have a CNC machine, you might likewise use it to issue this piece. If the motorcar is partially disassembled, IT may not embody feasible to cut down this part advanced, soh it's recommended to cut it forbidden primary.

Step 4: Build Cleats and Bushings

Cut 2 5mm rods to 26mm length.

Cut two 3mm rods to 13mm length.

Drill a 3mm hole in the 5mm rod that is 4mm from one end and 22 millimeter from the other end.

It buttocks be rather tricky to bore a hole that is centered and perpendicular. The printed part drill_guide.stl is intended to help. Plastic makes a poor drill usher because it cannot support the side forces of the drill bit wandering to the side of meat. To properly usage the practice session guide, use another material like wood, aluminum, or brand. Steel is shown. Drill a 3mm hole in the steel. Then align the golf hole in the steel with the cakehole in the drill guide. One time aligned, secure the nerve to the impressionable practise guide. Then recitation from the metal side (not the moldable side) so that the gold supports the drill bit from wandering laterally.

Fit the 3mm rod in the 3mm hole. Center it with equal length sticking out apiece side. Apply blue Loctite and twist / incite the 3mm rod gently to allow it to wick into the break. Wipe away excess Loctite and appropriate to harden.

The bushing/pulley-block (pulley.stl) must accept the 5mm rod just depending on the printer, it Crataegus laevigata be a crocked suit. It might beryllium necessary to ream the hole to be 5mm in sized.

It is moderately simple to make a "reamer" for plastic victimization some extra 5mm rod. Victimization an angle grinder Oregon a hacksaw, cut unitary OR two notches in the slope at the destruction of the rod cell. This need not be a sharp cutting edge, but when used in a power drill IT is potent at scraping the inside bore until the hole is 5mm in diam. This home-cured juicer is likewise used in a later step.

Step 5: Tie String along Onto Block

Cut four lengths of string at to the lowest degree 425 mm each. (Excess length will be cut off later.) Thread each string direct the pulleys and tie equally shown.

1. Thread from outside to within and out the 'hinder' (the back is the side without the protrusion).

2. So thread through the hole from back to front.

3. Then thread direct the other hole from front to back.

4. Affiliation a figure-8 plug knot near the free the end of the string.

5. Extract the stopper knot tight.

6. Tie an handmade knot around the loop. This effectively produces a slipknot through the two holes in the block.

7. Pull firm on the opposite goal to fasten the loop. The slipknot will tighten about the holes in the pulley-block.

8. Pull very hard on the string and the overhand nautical mile will steal away toward the free end of the string. It will slip until information technology reaches the stopper Calidris canutus and it won't move whatsoever further.

Repeat trio more times for three separate strings such that both pulleys each have two strings attached.

After the pulleys have strings attached, place 608 bearings on the bushing and insert the 5mm/3mm aluminiferous cleat into the central eagre.

Step 6: Assemble Tool Changer Plate and Test Blank

Abridged six pieces of spring wire (0.032" diameter) to length of approximately 61 mm. Install into holes in "plate_b.stl" as shown.

Use a thin bed of Golden State glue to glue the flat side of "plate_a.stl" to the regressive side of "plate_b.stl".

Install 6 balls into "tool_plate.stl". Stuff tightly with pliers or hit firmly with a hammer to control the balls are full seated. If the percentage is written properly, the balls should remain in place without mucilage. The side opposite the musket ball bearings has the rage lineament for examination the ability to grab.

Step 7: Set Tension (Preload) by Setting Distance

Install cleat/bushing assemblage into plate (without backward).

Place test dummy onto scale. Adjust rod axially within bushing until cleat depth is 'just right' to engage the ramp at approximately a 30-degree lean on when turned softly with your fingers.

This would constitute the final set if nobelium preload were practical. The desired preload is 3mm from this stance. This means the cleat should be glued into the bushing retracted by 3mm from this placement. Even though IT is in effect "too myopic", it will equal ironed forward to the correct depth by an adjustment screw in a subsequently step, and this is what produces the preload.

Remove cleat+bushing assembly from home plate. Measure depth. Retract by 3mm and mark position. Then use CA glue to secure for good in situ at the marked position.

Repeat for the other cleat assembly.

Step 8: Install Cleat Assemblies Into Plate and Plate Into Z Axis

Install cleat/bushing assemblies into plate and thread cords or so pulley and through with the openings. Tape recording string in place to prevent information technology from coming off of the pulleys.

Set up plate onto Z bloc rails victimisation #6-32 computer hardware. This requires the "Burly" nut traps which accommodate #6-32 nuts. The standard Primo method uses M5 nuts and bolts, but the screw heads are too large.

Footmark 9: Install Back Plateful and Adjust Profundity

Install denture back using four #6 sheet metallic screws.

Install deuce M3 modification screws in the center cardinal holes, which are directly behind the cleats. By adjusting these M3 screws, the cleats are pressed forward.

Conform the depth exploitation the M3 screws and turn the cleats by pull along the string. The profoundness is set aright when the cleat begins to engage the ramp at approximately a 30 degree angle. Ascribable the friction from the M3 screw pressing on the back of the metal retinal rod, it wish require a bit of force to turn the cleats, but it should still follow seeming where the cleats engage the mental test plate.

Step 10: Create Pushrods, Attach to Servo, and Install Servo Into Z Axis

With a servo enabled in the firmware and wired right, move to 0 and 120 victimisation commands "M280 P0 S0" and "M280 P0 S120" to confirm the range of motion.

If necessary, adjust servo horn such that it is nearly parallel to the body of the servo when in position "M280 P0 S0". Note: IT should rotate counter-clockwise when unwinding from S0 to S120, and right-handed when moving from S120 to S0.

Create pushrods by cutting pushrod wire (thick telegram of 0.047" diameter) to approx. 115mm in length and bending as shown. The "Z" shaped end will bind to the servo trump and the "L" shaped end will come with the take off "wire_string_link.stl". Bank note that the L-shaped bend is non quite a 90 degrees. This is intentional. The length of the "L" set forth must be between 8 and 10mm.

Install L-molded bend in the cable into the telegraph-string link and weightlift into the channel. If necessary, use a screwdriver to urge the conducting wire into the channel. Information technology should positively snap into lay out without whatever play. Install the 'cap' by sliding over the Z-bend and snapping into place on the end of the electrify-string link. This may be overkill but is intended to prevent the conducting wire from approach out of the line.

Install Z-bends of pushrods into servo horn.

Install servomechanism into servo angle bracket.

Confiscate control system bracket onto Z axis using #6-32 screws and nuts.

Step 11: Attach Pulley Strings to Wires (via Wire-Bowed stringed instrument Tie-in)

Orient cleats horizontally. This is the 'disengaged' set down. Go by the servomechanism to the "10" position using command M280 P0 S10. Carefully ribbon the string through the hole at long last of the wire-thread nexus. Feed through double for a bit of extra security.

Then feed through the hole in the side, and then wrap around the "pincher cleats". These are similar in emotional state to the old, familiar notches in spools for holding thread in place (shown for character reference), omit that by having multiple careful v-wrought grooves and four-fold wraps, IT can hold very firmly, and no knots are necessary. Wrap about at least twice through with each notch.

Repeat for the other three string section to secure both strings for some pulleys. Visualize the focal point that the servo will turn when rotating from "disengaged" to "engaged", and assure that the strings are committed thus that the cleats testament turn the same counsel.

Control strings are waterproofed. If strings are not wet, operating room if cleats are not at the same angle when in the unlocked position, discover and Ra-wrap so that they are. This may require 3 or 4 attempts to get right.

Move servo in small increments exploitation M280 P0 S<position> to determine the ideal locked and unlocked positions. Put down these positions for denotation.

Trial run locking and unlocking using the test plate. This uses the same plate that was used in setting the depth. Confirm that the servo can grab the test shell and release it.

Step 12: Snotty-nosed Core and Install Z Axis

Instalmen the Z axis into the MPCNC requires a modified core that is taller than the standard Primo core. The reason for this is so the Z axis can reach extra advanced. Without this unneeded height, it is problematic for the tool carousel to reach the puppet changer mechanism while still clearing the side rails.

The modified core is achieved aside flipping the standard core upper side-down and so adding an extender on top. The standard CORE is for the most part symmetrical but has a flange with holes for climbing unneeded things on the bottom. When flipped, these mounting holes are used to secure the extension.

After removing the standard Z axis, remove the leadscrew nut from the top of the standard core. Undo the gantry rail and slide by them out axially to free the core.

Swap the placement of the Y-axis clamp to the seemly location. This is optional but without this you will lose a moment of workspace in the Y management. Reinstall core upside-down.

Install sestet bearings into the core extension in the same manner that bearings were installed along the classical core. Leave the outside bolts loose for now. Install telephone extension on top of the modular core. Use M5 bolts and nuts to slackly attach the extension.

Install the Z axis vertebra through every the bearings in the marrow and extension. At one time the Z axis is in situ, tighten down the Z Axis bearings of the extension. Then tighten down the M5 bolts attaching the flanges in concert.

Footstep 13: Mount Tools Into Tool Holders

(Currently only mounting parts for the DW660 have been created.)

Print the generic tool mount "universal_tool_plate.stl". Put in six ball bearings into the sockets and squeeze firmly with pliers or pound with a hammer to ensure they are fully seated. Print the Strapping mount for the DW660 parts, 660_Low_Mount_V1.stl and 660_Upper_Mount_V1.stl. (The "lock" pieces of the standard DW660 climb down are non necessary.)

IMPORTANT: the tip of the lockup cleat, specifically the tip of the 5mm rod, may collide with the DW660 mounts and prevent engagement to the square-toed depth. If this happens, the mechanism can jam when it attempts to rotate, which commode collapse things. To forbid this from happening, drill 1/4" holes into the DW660 mounts directly between the attachment screws. You Crataegus laevigata drill 3/8" holes if you want to make up extra safe.

After the holes are trained, seize these parts to the universal tool plate.

The "dw660_hanger.stl" part takes the stead of the "Lock" pieces of the DW660 mount and also includes features for hanging the tool in its parking spot. Print this piece and expend information technology to secure the DW660 in send. Unfortunately, this piece requires a good deal of financial support to print properly.

Dance step 14: Replace Turning point Top With Carousel Bearer Post

Tease both belt holders connected front-left corner and polish of X rap holder from corner. Remove corner top and supplant with carousel_corner_post.stl. Reinstall bash holders and retighten belts.

Set up 25.4mm tube into corner post and install one #6 flat solid metal screw to secure. This does not need to be extremely tight; it just needs to remove play (if any).

Install large gear wheel (carousel_gear_wheel.stl) onto niche post and manipulation three #6 sheet metal screws to go with the corner post. Exist sure that the screws enter first through the hole in the gear steering wheel and then secure into the holes in the corner post. (The gear holes are oversized so as to not engage the threads, and the nook post holes are smaller, so they come engage the threads.)

Install cap_bearing_holder.stl onto the top of the tube and install a bearing onto the load-bearing holder.

Step 15: Assemble and Install Luggage carousel Home base

Attach the "rocket" piece (cap_bearing_struts.stl) to the luggage carousel plate, attempting to baffle it approximately centered. Use six #6 sheet metal screws to attach the rocket to the carousel scale.

Place assembled carousel plate and rocket onto the carousel post. The bearing at the top of the carousel post should acceptable snugly inside the tapered 'nose' of the rocket.

Put in a bearing into each of the small base_roller.stl pieces and utilise a #6 screw and a base_roller_cap.stl piece (basically a washer) to firmly secure. Use of goods and services #6 screws to attach these rollers some the base of the rocket to roller against the metal tube and hold the luggage carrousel plate naiant. Conform as necessary until the scale is horizontal and the bearings are tight against the tube then in that respect is atomic number 102 take on. It whitethorn be helpful to steadfastly tap the rollers toward the center tube to get a tight fit. I used a wrench as shown because it's great enough and it's flat.

Step 16: Install Carousel Stepper

Install the carousel_gear_motor.stl onto the stepper motive. Use two #6 screws to stiffen the gear onto the stepper shaft. Avoid cracking the constructive if possible.

Place the stepper into the motor_rigid_mount.stl bracket with the gear pointing down. Use one #6 screw to mildly tighten the strap around the motor and swoop the motor downward until it is at the proper to to engage the bigger bicycle gear.

Holding the gear so that it engages with the wheel gearing, mark the location of the mount holes. Drill archetype holes into the Wood and secure the motor wax to the carousel photographic plate. Spin around the carousel clear around to confirm that the motor engages the steering wheel pitch properly all the way around.

Attach extension wires if necessary and connect the stepper to the E0 extruder stepper port on the command board.

Forward you have flashed the firmware as described in the before step, check that the carousel rotates by the proper amount by entering G1 E90 F300 and check that it rotates by 90 degrees at a reasonable pep pill.

Mistreat 17: Install Tool Parking Spots

Publish one tool_parking.stl for each tool and cut three segments of 5mm rod, with a duration of 20mm each. The segments of pole will act as hooks for the puppet to hold the line.

The rods may have difficulty fitting inside the printed part, since printed parts tend to have inaccurate hole sizes. If needed, use the 5mm reamer to enlarge the hole for the 5mm rod to fit. Bevel the ends of the rods to make it somewhat Sir Thomas More tolerant of misalignment, then glue the rods in place using California glue.

Arrange the parking hook such that it hangs slightly off the edge of the phonograph recording. Drill pilot holes and use four #6 screws to secure the parking snitch to the whirligig plate.

Identify the puppet on the parking hook and step by step move the creature change mechanism ahead to the interface to check if it is aligned the right way and perpendicular. Shim the corners of the parking spot as indispensable to align the instrument exchange mechanism with the tool.

Repeat this abuse for each tool.

Step 18: Manually "Home" Machine and Measure Offsets

Jog machine to the position to engage the first puppet (patc parked
in the first parking spot). Perform G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 to set this as the zero position to measure other offsets relative to this placement.

(Do not engage servo to grab tool. We're sporting measuring stance offsets.)

Disengage tool away moving in +X and +Y counsel with G1 X50 Y50 F300.

Slowly rotate tool with G1 E F20 until the arcsecond tool around is approximately lined improving with the joyride mount. Slowly move tool mount toward the creature and aline the rotation to absorb the tool mount with the second joyride. Some Z adjustment mightiness constitute necessary depending on the physical conjunction.

Once the second tool is seated, determine the offset from the first tool by issuing the command M114 and recording the stance. Repeat for some additional tools, transcription for each tool the position congener to the showtime instrument.

In my case the X offset was 4, the Y offset was -2, the Z offset was -1, and the E offset was -69.18.

Likewise commemorate the tip (E value) necessary to rotate the empty section of the carousel cycle into position. This maximizes the working blank space and reduces the chance of collision with other parked tools. In my case this offset was +70 (or good enough).

To usage a workspace relational to the workpiece spell also
having the power to pick off up and put down tools, use two workspaces, one for tools and one for dynamical tools:

• G54 is the workspace for mounting and unmounting tools, with X=0 Y=0 Z=0 E=0 corresponding to attractive the first tool
• G55 is the workspace relative to the workpiece

Note: this is a simplified method that does non account for offsets between tools when mounted.

Define these scripts for parking and unparking each tool:

Pick up creature 0:

G54 G1 X100 Y100 Z0 F1200     ; move tool mount diagonal from parking place G1 E0 F300                ; circumvolve instrument into place G1 X8 Y8 F1200            ; move over close to picking up the tool G1 X-0.5 Y-0.5 F300       ; slowly insert locking cleats into tool G4 S0                     ; do not engage servo before movement finishes M280 P0 S110              ; engage cleat using servo G4 S3                     ; wait for servomechanical to terminate movement G1 X7 Y7 Z10 F200         ; commove and unconscious diagonally at 45-degree angle G1 X100 Y100 Z0 F1200     ; move away from puppet parking blemish G1 E70                    ; circumvolve disc out of the direction G55            

Drop puppet 0:

G54 G1 X100 Y100 Z0 F1200     ; go out tool climb on diagonal from parking spot G1 E0 F300                ; rotate tool into place G1 X7 Y7 Z10 F1200        ; displace back (none outgrowth required) G1 X0 Y0 Z0 F100          ; easy come in back onto pins G4 S0                     ; get into't move servosystem until prior movement finishes M280 P0 S0                ; disengage servo G4 S3                     ; wait for control system to goal disengaging G1 X100 Y100 Z0 F1200     ; go rearmost impermissible            

Pick up tool N (includes offsets measured above)

G54 G1 X<100+outgrowth> Y<100+offset> Z<0+offshoot> F1200 G1 E F300          G1 X<8+offset> Y<8+offset> F1200 G1 X<-0.5+offset> Y<-0.5+showtim> F300 G4 S0                M280 P0 S110         G4 S3                G1 X<7+offset> Y<7+starting time> Z<10+offset> F200  G1 X<100+offset> Y<100+offset> Z<0+branch> F1200 G1 E70 G55            

Set down tool N:

G54 G1 X<100+beginning> Y<100+offset> Z F1200 G1 E F300            G1 X<7+runner> Y<7+offset> Z<10+offset> F1200    G1 X Y Z F100      G4 S0                 M280 P0 S0            G4 S3                 G1 X<100+offset> Y<100+offset> Z<0+offset> F1200            

Enter these commands one away one connected the console, checking after each unitary that the behavior is correct. Be in particular measured when piquant the lock mechanism M280 P0 S because if the tool is not fully booked it rear crush the mechanism and infract some parts which will own to be disassembled, re-printed, and rhenium-assembled.

Maltreat 19: Insert Scripts Into Job at Tool Changes

The overall work flow to cut a job would work American Samoa follows:

1. Victimization Fusion OR EstlCAM or your favorite CAM program, generate toolpath containing T0, T1, Tennessee commands to switch betwixt tools.
2. At the first tool change bidding, replace Tx with the command to se the conquer joyride.
3. At every resultant tool vary, replace the Tx command with the overlook to drop the previous tool and pick up the new tool. (Ideally this would be automated with a postprocessing script, but I haven't implemented this yet.)
4. At the end of the gcode, insert the script to drowse off the last tool that was secondhand.
5. Earlier executing the problem, "Interior" the machine by jogging the tool modifier in X, Y, Z, and E then that it engages the number 1 tool, like was done in the previous step. Perform G54 and then G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 to set this as the zero localisation of the G54 workspace.
6. Perk the first tool by executing the "cull out up joyride 0" script.
7. Jog to the pedigree of the workpiece.
8. Perform G55 and then G92 X0 Y0 Z0 to set this as the zero location of the G55 workspace.
9. Pretermit off the first tool by death penalty the "drop bump off tool 0" hand.
10. Execute the gcode.

Unfortunately there is currently no mechanism to home the carousel. Homing the machine is possible and sheer coordinates would simplify the time-intense and fallible blue-collar coalition of the tool changer and carousel. I seaport't yet installed endstops for orientating sol I can't yet do this along my automobile.

Step 20: Measure Mounted Per-tool Offsets

The above methodology assumes the puppet location is superposable thoughtless of which tool is decorated. This is rough but non on the nose true for multiple tools of the same type, like the DW660. For dissimilar tools wish swapping betwixt a playpen, a router, and a Dremel, the position may vary a lot between tools.

To compensate for the clear-cut tool positions, first measure the positions relative to the first tool. This mensuration can be accomplished using the G55 workspace. Mount the primary tool and jog to a point of reference. Do G92 X0 Y0 Z0 to set this as the zero location of the G55 workspace.

And then park tool 0 and mount tool 1. Jog the new tool to the same reference point. The position might not be X=0 Y=0 Z=0 comparable it was for tool 0. Perform M114 to determine the proportionate position between tool 1 and tool 0.

Repeat for any other tools, and you rich person a table of offsets for the individual tools. These numbers pool are old as an instance to exemplify the process. You must use your personal offsets as unhurried.

              X showtim Y offset Z offset Tool 0 (G55)	 0	 0        0 Tool 1 (G56)	-5	-6      -11 Tool 2 (G57)	-1	 2       -5            

Short letter that positive numbers mean that the gauntry must be shifted in the positive X, Y, or Z direction to achieve the same effective fix. Negative numbers mean that the gantry must be shifted in the negative X, Y, or Z direction to accomplish the unvarying location as tool 0.

Now or else of plainly doing G92 X0 Y0 Z0 to assign workspace coordinates comparative to the workpiece, use a script that sets whol workspaces:

G92 X0 Y0 Z0    ; set origin of tool 0 workspace G56             ; switch to instrument 1 workspace G92 X5 Y6 Z11   ; set coordinates of tool 1 workspace G57             ; flip to joyride 2 workspace G92 X1 Y-2 Z5   ; set coordinates of tool 2 workspace G55             ; switch back to tool 0 workspace            

Short letter that the G92 commands use the negated values from the table to a higher place. IT can be opinion of as a hypothetical enquiry: if the gauntry were in the same location but another tool were loaded, where would the tool tip glucinium relative to the origin?

At length, the tool pickup scripts must be modified to switch to the appropriate workspace or else of ever switching to G55 (the last step of the tool pickup playscript). Creature 0 switches to G55, tool around 1 switches to G56, tool 2 switches to G57, etc.

Step 21: Next Focussing

These are additional features that would add value but haven't yet been implemented:

• Automatic homing. Particularly, somehow homing the carousel would be important.
• Switching power to the tools. A physical switch mounted in the parking spaces unitedly with M3/M5 could automatically turn on the expedient tool.
• Electrical link to the tools. For a poke into it would be nice to have an electrical connection through and through the puppet mount rather than running an extra wire.
• Detect creature mounting and halt if mounting fails. Currently if the personal connective is not successful properly, at that place is no way for the machine to agnize IT.
• Extruders. Currently the carousel uses the E Axis and sharing the E axis with an extruder would lead to problems. Perhaps the E axis of rotation respects workspaces and this is a non-issue but it would motivation to be verified before this is used Eastern Samoa multi-material printer.

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Source: https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Automatic-Tool-Changer-for-MPCNC/